Where to begin?! It is actually insane how much I’ve learned since bringing Benny into our family over 4 years ago. I will start with saying that I would say the overwhelming majority of people do not understand the amount of work / time that goes in to properly raising a puppy and how much your lifestyle changes. I knew to some extent, but didn’t realize how much of my lifestyle and day-to-day would be altered.

Regardless of their age, all dogs / pets require a lot of care and attention, but puppies in particular are very much like babies in that they need so much hands-on care if you want a well-behaved, socialized, and adjusted adult dog. The kindest, most responsible thing you can do when deciding to get a pup is to make sure you are adequately prepared and truly willing to do what it takes to raise a puppy— there was someone in my building who decided to get a corgi puppy after seeing Benny and another corgi puppy in the building, and they gave him up 4 DAYS after getting him. IMHO that is tragic and so unfair to that puppy, so make sure to evaluate if you’re someone who genuinely wants to be a puppy parent or someone who is more suited to just petting all the dogs (which is totally fine!).

ANYWAY.

I watched hours and hours of YouTube videos on puppy training, read an embarrassing number of articles on raising a puppy, and I don’t even want to THINK about how many hours I spent on reading product reviews / research I did on food, toys, and supplies to get… BUT that is what made me want to make this guide for fellow new puppy parents! This guide will save you that time / research, and will make you feel as prepared as possible for when your baby comes home. It will be an overwhelming time, regardless, but this will make your life easier.

For your ease, below is a clickable menu that you can jump down to the sections that you need— I do recommend reading through the whole guide, but some of you might only need some parts of it.

One last thing— this post is not sponsored but contains some affiliate links through which I may make a small commission off anything you may purchase through them. It’s what makes blog posts like these possible.

Jump to:

Prep List: Before Bringing Your Puppy Home

Puppy Basic Essentials Shopping List
House stuff
Food Things
Grooming
Walking / Potty Essentials
Toys / Chews
Optional but Helpful Things

Training Resources / Tips
Resources
Things I’ve Learned / Highly Advise

• Hide or move the things you don’t want your puppy to eat / destroy out of reach— electrical cords, nice shoes, plants that are toxic for dogs, cleaning products, medications, etc.

• Clean the house— seriously though, do all your laundry, clean the floors, bathroom, kitchen, and take care of any organization that needs to be done, because you will not have the time / mental energy for any of this for the first few weeks! We did this and it was SO NICE not having to worry about most of our usual chores for a bit because Benny supplied us with MANY new chores to do for him 🤣

• Find a vet— you will need to bring your puppy to the vet after bringing him/her home for a routine check; our vet recommended giving Benny a few days to acclimate to his new home before bringing him to the vet, as young puppies can experience a lot of stress and anxiety leaving their littermates / home they’re used to. Make sure to check with your vet to see what they recommend for your pup specifically, and it’s helpful to schedule the appointment in advance so you’re all set by the time your puppy is home.

• Research pet insurance options— from every single pet parent I know, pet insurance is highly recommended. Research your options, as your healthcare provider / employer may have an additional option to add pet insurance, or opt for a separate provider. Depending on how comprehensive of coverage you want (think about what health issues the breed of your dog may be prone to or if they have known health issues) and where you live, the monthly cost generally ranges from $25-80. We got basic insurance for Benny and paid about $30/month at the beginning when he was a puppy, and it’s now it’s $50/month due to his increased age. We use Pet’s Best insurance— other insurances I’ve had friends recommend are, Healthy Paws and Embrace.

• Get all your essentials— this brings me to the next section of this guide, the puppy basic essentials shopping list! 👇

I’m good with resisting spending money on shopping for myself, but I wanted to buy ALL the cute (and pricey) things for my dog— and almost did, but several dog mom friends cautioned me to not go crazy on buying anything except the basic essentials to start because, A) the puppy will destroy things, and B) you’ll find yourself buying lots of additional items in the first few weeks as you realize what your individual puppy needs and likes.

• Crate

  • I’ll talk more about crate training in the “Training” section below, but I highly recommend this. To reduce multiple purchases, we decided to get a crate that would fit Benny when he is full grown (30” crate) but that came with a divider so that we could size it appropriately when he’s smaller too. The rule of thumb for sizing is that your dog should be able to turn around and lay comfortably in it, and stand up without hitting his head or ears. This is the basic one we had for the first few years of his life until he managed to outgrow it (he surprised us with being a longer corgi than most!)— it collapses and has a handle in case you need to travel with it, and comes with a divider. We also previously used this mat that fits inside of it— Benny turned out to be a scratcher though and destroyed that mat fairly quickly, so we got this K9 Ballistics crate mat that I wish we had gotten from the beginning. It’s pricier, but machine-washable, water-resistant, and not a single bit of damage in 10 months.

  • Since his puppy days and he outgrew his old crate, we upgraded him to a Diggs crate. We got the medium size Revol, and then added this foam bed for him (the 30” fit the medium Diggs crate perfectly, and is cheaper than the Diggs pads).

  • Car-safe crate: We got him the Diggs Eventur travel crate, as it straps into the trunk and is crash-tested. We looked at many other crash-tested crates, and chose this for the balance of price point, protection, and size that could fit into our car. I highly recommend crating your pup (any crate is better than none!) over any kind of carseat or letting them loose in the car, as the force of a crash can be devastating.

• Playpen

  • I really tried to resist buying this because we have a small apartment and I thought it would be ugly and cumbersome. Both of those things are still true, but the need for a playpen (for your personal sanity) is also true in the early weeks— when I realized this, it was a mad scramble to local pet stores to try to find one out of desperation. It’s a place where they can visibly see their boundaries, safely learn to play independently, and a spot you can keep them out of trouble for when you’re working, cooking, or whatever else. We got the most affordable, basic one (we got the 30” with the door— and if you think that’s not cheap, check out the prices on other ones…) I could find, and it worked just fine.

• Bed

  • A bed is a great thing to have for your pup to train that it is their “happy place” aside from their crate— a comfy place to bring their toys, chews, and to just rest. The most important things about a bed IMHO are: durability (so they can’t chew it or scratch it to shreds), washability (removable covers are ideal), and the cover material (water-repellent is helpful to keep things cleaner for longer). I’m of the opinion that you shouldn’t invest in a nice bed right away until you see if your pup is a destroyer or not, to save you $$ just incase. His favorite over the years has been this affordable popular fuzzy donut bed (we got the medium 30”) to have in addition to his other bed and he is obsessed with it— it’s supposed to mimic the fur of pup’s mama’s, and Benny sleeps so well in it. Costco also has great dog beds at great prices, especially for larger pups!

• House Line

  • A lot of people don’t know what a house line is (this video explains the need for it well— our trainer also recommends utilizing one and we found it VERY helpful for Benny), but it’s basically a small cheap leash you keep on your pup at home to assist with training, so you don’t have to chase down your pup if they’re doing something naughty or getting into something not safe for them. If your puppy is on the smaller side, make sure to choose a leash with a SMALL buckle for this so it’s not dragging on the floor / too heavy for them. The one we initially bought for him was too heavy and big, so we had to buy another.

• Pet-specific Stain + Odor Remover

  • Any cleaner will not work for puppy potty accidents— if your puppy has an accident (especially on porous floor like carpet / rugs), they are able to smell their mess even after cleaning it up and will think that it’s a potty-friendly spot🙅🏻‍♀️You need an enzyme-based cleaner— our favorite is this natural stain remover that is carpet / fabric safe and non-toxic.

• Bowls

  • You want something dishwasher safe and not easily breakable, as cute as all those ceramic bowls out there are— because your pup may looove to push their bowl around / flip it. I currently hand feed Benny on his walks and use this slow-feeder bowl for his other meals (because my son is a literal vacuum). For his water, we have this ceramic bowl (this one was too cute that we saw at a hotel and I had to get it!) for his water because he outgrew his old small stainless steel one.

• Bowl Mat

  • My boy is rather uncivilized with his food and is the sloppiest drinker and eater. I am so glad we got this (dishwasher safe!) bowl mat to put under his water bowl and his food bowl— both to help the bowls not slide around, but also to not have food and water everywhere all the time.

• Actual food

  • What should I feed my puppy?

    • Just like with human food, there are hundreds of debates on what is the best type of food for your dog— raw, grain-free, not grain-free, kibble, fresh, etc. Regardless of what you end up choosing, you will first need a small bag of whatever the puppy has been eating at the breeder or shelter (even if you don’t like it)— you cannot abruptly change a puppy’s food without completely upsetting his digestive system. Most breeders, vets, and trainers recommend feeding your pup the food he’s been eating for at least 1 week after bringing him home, because your pup’s body and digestion will already be stressed from all the changes and newness. Then after that, slowly transition him (here’s AKC’s guide on safely transitioning foods) to whatever food you and your vet choose for your pup.

    • We used to feed him Orijen Puppy kibble and soak it in water or dog-friendly bone broth (remember, dogs can’t have alliums like garlic and onion that is in most human bone broth!), but we have since switched to Open Farm’s Puppy Recipe with Ancient Grains because of the concerns with DCM with a grain-free diet, and we also mix a bit of the Raw Freeze-Dried Pasture Raised Lamb in it for his lunch everyday because he’s spoiled. We still wanted gluten-free and without potatoes and legumes, and Open Farm is sustainably sourced and offers complete traceability of ingredients. Benny has absolutely loved it and his body seems to love it too— his 💩has never been better (if talking about poop scares you, get used to it before you bring a dog home 🤣). I won’t tell you how to feed your dog, but talk to your vet to see what is right for them because all dogs are different!

    • UPDATE on this: we are still happily using Open Farm, but have fully switched to the Freeze-Dried Raw food, as it’s been most compatible for Benny.

• Training Treats

  • Benny is rather non-discriminatory when it comes to food🤣but I’m not. I recommend electing for treats that are under 4 cals / piece, as the general recommendation for treats is 10% of their caloric intake (90% their main food) and made with wholesome ingredients. Benny is a food maniac, so we actually cut all his chewy training treats in half to make each piece into two pieces, to control his overall intake— especially since corgis are prone to weight issues and will eat themselves to death if you allow it.

  • For soft, chewy nutrient-dense treats, we love Zuke’s and Bocce’s Bakery. For freeze-dried protein-rich treats, Stella & Chewy freeze-dried nuggets are amazing high-value rewards at 3 cals/piece and you can easily tear the nugget up to get about 5-6 treats out of each— perfect for walks. For cookies / special crunchies, he loves Bocce’s Bakery biscuits. Trader Joe’s also has some solid treat options, like salmon skins, and dried chicken jerky!

  • You can also use cut up pieces of dog-friendly fruits and vegetables to mix it up— Benny loooves cucumber, frozen carrots (also good for teething), blueberries, celery, and broccoli.

• Dental Sticks

  • From what I’ve learned, it’s more important to keep up with brushing your puppy’s teeth for dental health and to avoid having to get official dental cleanings (they have to be put under for this!), and that certain kinds of natural chews are actually better for cleaning their teeth than dental sticks— BUT if you want dental sticks, I recommend these that have DHA for their brain (Benny goes nuts for these) or Whimzees, rather than the popular Greenies that are filled with a bunch of not so great ingredients. Keep in mind that no dental stick will have only nutritious ingredients, as ingredients like potato starch are what help “clean” the teeth. We have both of the sticks I mentioned, and I give him a stick maybe 1-2x/week for now. Update: we brush Benny’s teeth every day, and prefer to give Benny “real chews” (bully sticks, beef trachea, pig ear, etc) to help his dental health, as well as regular brushing, rather than dental sticks.

• Emergency Food— Pumpkin, Rice, and Chicken

  • I would just have these on hand for peace of mind: a can of pure pumpkin puree (no additives), frozen plain cooked chicken (no seasonings, salt, or oil), and plain rice. Puppies can have upset stomachs frequently from stress, too many treats, dehydration, or whatever else— pumpkin is dually helpful for stopping diarrhea but also to help regularity, and then your vet will likely prescribe plain chicken and rice if your puppy is having any stomach issues.

• Optional— Supplements

  • Optional, but supplementation can be beneficial for your growing pup— especially if you have a pup that has known issues for its breed. For instance, corgis are known for joint / hip issues, so I wanted to get Benny on a supplement for that to preventatively support his joints. For dog breeds prone to joint issues (corgis, dachshunds, german shepards, labs) try to find a Hip & Joint supplement that has chondroitin, glucosamine, MSM and crucial green-lipped mussel. We like Finn, and Zesty Paws (we double up with their green lipped mussel one). Zesty Paws also has great allergy immune ones for itchy pups!

• Toothbrush + Toothpaste

  • I’ll talk about the importance of “handling” your puppy while they’re young later in the training section, but it’s super helpful to get your pup used to having their mouth touched and get them familiar with having their teeth brushed from an early age. I highly recommend just getting a child’s toothbrush, and this toothpaste. First introduce your pup to the toothpaste by having them eat a little off your finger, then introduce them to the brush so they’re not afraid of it. Just like with any grooming (nails, fur brushing), it’s best to do it often and in short, incomplete bouts at first to just get them used to it so they think it’s no big deal.

• Shampoo / Conditioner

  • ICYMI, you cannot use any human products on your dog’s skin / fur (soaps, wipes, etc), as their pH levels are different than ours. The most popular non-toxic, green shampoo / conditioner recommended to me from friends was Earthbath’s line— now that we’ve used it, I can also recommend it because it’s really great and gentle while being effective. We’ve used the hypo-allergenic fragrance free shampoo and then the oatmeal + aloe fragrance free conditioner since he was a puppy, and it’s been perfect for his sensitive skin!

• Nail Dremel + Stypic Powder

  • I was terrified of cutting Benny’s nails because I had heard it was super painful for puppies if you accidentally cut into their quick (the blood vessel in their nails) and they’d hate getting their nails trimmed after that— but it’s SUPER important to keep them trimmed well (their nails should not be touching the floor if they are sitting normally) to avoid paw injuries or nails ripping. Start while they’re young to get them used to this!

  • Nail clippers vs. Dremel: I thought I had done a lot of research and I initially got dog nail clippers because I thought a dremel was more intimidating— I HATED clippers. They did not clip cleanly and would roughly break some of his nails, so Benny was not thrilled either. I HIGHLY recommend a nail dremel instead— you have to get your pup comfortable with the whirring sound of the dremel and it may take a lot of rewards, praise, and short sessions where you only do one nail at a time if your pup is skittish, but it’s so much easier to trim for both you and your pup. We have this one— it’s not too loud, charges via USB, and works for all nail sizes.

  • You should have stypic powder on hand when trimming your puppy’s nails, just incase you cut into their “quick” to stop the bleeding safely. Here’s a great article on what to do if that happens.

• Brush

  • Depending on the type of coat your puppy has, you may need different brushes. Double coated dogs like corgis need slicker brushes and/or undercoat rakes— we have this one that is great, but it was too big / tough on him when he was really young and small, so we used this simple one until he was about 4 months old and is great for small dogs. UPDATE: we got this rubber brush that removes the loose fur after brushing with his slicker, and it is a LIFESAVER — the amount of loose fur that we get out of his coat has lessened the amount we find around the house and that we have on our clothes.

• Ear Cleaner

  • Another grooming staple to help avoid ear infections / smelly ears, I love this ear cleaner— it’s gentle, alcohol-free, and made with only natural ingredients. It smells great, and we clean his ears right after his bath or as needed.

• Grooming Wipes

  • I’m a “no shoes in the house” type of person because I live in Brooklyn (and there also is a pandemic going on…) and am a little OCD with hygiene. After every walk, I wipe Benny’s paws down with these non-toxic, bamboo-based grooming wipes (we get the unscented ones)— it’s also good to wipe down puppies coats, paws, and around their eyes / snout after playing in dirty areas, grass, and dirt to avoid environmental allergy reactions that pups can have. It’s also great for tear stain and their butts after not so clean poops because, trust me, that WILL happen. And if talk about poops just made you cringe, you may not be ready for a puppy because they are poop machines 🤣Also, while I love Earthbath’s other stuff, we tried their grooming wipes and we like Pogi’s (the ones linked above) much better.

• Leash

  • I was tempted to buy a pricey boutique designer leash (oops), but my dog mom friends told me to not waste my money at first— they were quite correct. Pups will likely chew their leashes while they’re learning and you’ll drag them through dirty sidewalks— so save the nicer leash for when they are properly leash trained! Got this $15 copycat rope leash that was and still is great. UPDATE: not sponsored to say this, but this is our only leash we have been using— the Awoo infinity leash that can be worn 10 different ways, including hands-free around your waist or over the shoulder, and it’s so well-priced for how beautifully and sturdy it is made AND with recycled materials (10% off with BENNY10).

• Collar / Harness

  • Collar vs. Harness?

    • Collars are simple and easy, but if you have a leash puller or a dog you need to be able to control more easily, a harness is often less stressful on their body because the leash attachment will disperse the strain across the body rather than just the neck. Deciding this also can depend on what breed/size of dog you have, as some dogs (like corgis) have more non-standard proportions that can make certain harnesses tougher.

  • For a collar, if you have a really young puppy or small dog, consider a thinner width of collar (3/8”) and then if they’re bigger or older, a standard width (5/8”). For reference, Benny wore a size XS in this collar when he was about 8 weeks until around 15 weeks or so— since then, he wears this collar from Awoo (10% off with BENNY10) and it’s lasted us for years!

  • For a harness, this Puppia harness in a size Small was great for Benny from about week 9 through 16. I really liked using a harness for him during that age too, as I had much more control over him on a leash without worrying that I was hurting his little neck when he was so small. We now only use Awoo’s harness— it’s adjustable, soft on their body, and super secure. He’s such a great walker with it! (10% off with BENNY10).

• Waterbottle / Travel Bowl

  • We had a little dehydration scare a month ago, so now we are super vigilant about his water during his walks— especially if you live in a hot area / during summers. This puppy waterbottle is perfect for walks because you can have the water flow back into the bottle if your puppy doesn’t finish what’s in the trough— it’s BPA free and leak-proof (I confirm this!) with a lock. A more portable alternative if you know you’re going somewhere with access to water fountains / clean drinking water, is to have a collapsible bowl— we have this one that also has a keychain clip to make it easy to transport. It’s also better for travel when you can’t take water through security at an airport!

• Poop Bags

  • We use these poop bags from Earth Rated, and they’re great— durable, strong, easy to use, and all their packaging and cores are made with recycled materials. P.S. poop bags that are marketed as compostable are really greenwashing marketing because compostable material generally needs a heat process to be broken down at a composting facility— and most people throw out their poop bags in trash cans that go to landfill, where these bags won’t break down. The more ya know!

• Poop Bag Holder

  • We currently have this basic poop bag holder. I recommend a holder that has a keychain attachment, zipper closure so the roll doesn’t fall out when it’s almost done, and a rubber feed hole instead of a large gap because when you’re trying to pick up poop one-handed alone, convenience / ease is KEY.

• Wee Wee pads

  • We’ll talk about potty training in the training section, but if you need wee wee pads, I like these from Pogi’s. There are no effective wee wee pads that are completely sustainable, but I like that these are at least made of renewable and sustainably-sourced plant-based material. Yes, they’re more expensive than the standard ones, but they also don’t have the perfumey chemical scent that standard pads have, and they actually work.

• Plushies, No-Stuff, Squeakers, Rubber, Teething, and Rope Toys— What’s the difference?
  Hold off on buying a million cute toys for your pup based on the look of them, as tempting as it is! First of all, you won’t know what kind of toys your puppy will enjoy / gravitate towards, so you don’t want a bunch of toys that they’re not interested in. Secondly, different toys serve different purposes, so it’s important to have variety. Plushies, no-stuff soft toys, squeaky toys are all for fun and play; rubber chew toys, rope toys, and teething toys are all NECESSITIES for the teething phase to keep your puppy from destroying things from furniture to your fingers. Variety is important, as they need different textures to help with training them away from things they’re not supposed to chew. Invincible / indestructible toys DO NOT exist, so always watch your pup to make sure that once a toy starts to fall apart (stuffing comes out, loose pieces), take it away so they do not eat them and potentially choke.

  • Plushies, No-Stuff, Crinkle and Squeaky Toys— Zippypaws, Outward Hound, and Frisco all make the best durable and fun toys that I’ve found.

  • Rubber + Teething and Rope Toys—

    • Kong is amazing— their classic kong toys are made of their specialty durable rubber are amazing for teething + soothing your puppy’s gums. We have 3 puppy classic Kongs at this point that we use for chewing, stuffing with treats (peanut butter, pumpkin puree, freeze dried nuggets, frozen bone broth + veggies) to keep him occupied— IMHO, Kongs are a must.

    • ALWAYS watch your pup while they play with rope toys (all toys in general, really) , as if they swallow big parts of it, it can get caught in their intestines.

    • Something to also note— it is said that you should not give a dog a hard toy that you cannot press into with your fingernail, otherwise you risk their teeth breaking. Numerous dog parents have warned me against Benebones and Nylabones (especially because when those wear down, it’s nylon they’re eating) and animal antlers of any kind, so we stay away from those. It’s one of those things that it’s up to you to decide the risk and what you think is best for your pup!

• A Very Good Vacuum

  • I had my old crappy vacuum for 10 years before this and when I initially brought up the prospect of getting a cordless Dyson and the price to Justin, he was like, “a vacuum costs what?!” But EVERY single day since bringing Benny home, we have been like BLESS THIS DYSON, it was worth every single frickin penny. If you have a heavy-shedding puppy like a corgi or allergies (we have both), you will fill up and empty this bin every other day and aren’t wasting bags. We got the V10 Absolute during a special deal— I recommend the Absolute if you have hardwood floors like we do (because it comes with a head for hardwood + for carpet, plus other attachments), or if you just have carpet / rugs, the Animal is great.

• Feeding Toys / Treats

  • Puzzle food toys are great for puppies that eat too quickly / are high energy— these toys stimulate their brains to mentally tire them out and satisfy their natural foraging instincts. Our trainer recommended this kibble dispenser toy and this treat dispenser (I like to fill it with cut up cucumber + carrots, and Benny loves both. Remember to choose the appropriate size for your pup (we have the small version of both)! Then there’s a fun, more advanced puzzle toy that he loves from Outward Hound— they have multiple levels of these for beginners and for more advanced/older pups!

  • Stuffed Kongs are amazing— will keep them entertained for a long time! This is a great guide on how to stuff Kongs with healthy stuff (instead of filler treat stuffers that come in a can from the store).

  • Lick mats came to our rescue during his neuter recovery or whenever you need to keep them busy with some enrichment— smear some peanut butter, plain sugar-free yogurt, or pumpkin puree on there, freeze it, and they’ll be entertained for quite some time!

• TSA-Friendly Airline Carrier / Car Carrier

  • Depending on if you are flying home with your puppy or driving home with your puppy, you’ll need a safe and comfy carrier— we used this carrier for Benny up until he was about 16 weeks old. He’s too big for it now, but it made drives much easier with this and it’s TSA-friendly to fit as a carry-on under the seat.

As all dog trainers say, if you put in the extra work and dedication to proper training in the first year of a puppy’s life, you will save yourself from having to deal with problematic behaviors that are harder as an adult dog to unlearn. Here are all the resources that helped us so much with Benny and all the advice I have for new puppy parents:

• YouTube Videos— it’s almost overwhelming the amount of dog experts / trainers that are on YouTube. After scouring and watching for hours, I really recommend McCann Dog Training’s channel. While not every single lesson / technique will be perfect for your pup (all dogs are different!), it’s an incredible resource for US as puppy parents to learn how to train properly— because it really has everything to do with us and our approaches, and not the pups. Everything in the early days from the steps to teaching him tricks, potty training, recall, feeding, handling, etc. I learned from their channel. They pretty much have a video for every question you could have about puppy training!

• Professional Training— I know, it’s expensive and not accessible for everyone. If you can accommodate it, professional training does work wonders. We love our trainer from Andrea Arden Training— we had a handful of virtual Zoom lessons with her that was amazing to answer our specific questions. They also offer online classes for $25 for specific topics!

• Obedience Training— start it the day you bring your puppy home. They are never too young, and most puppies are eager to learn— some puppies are food-motivated (my monster), and some are praise / play-motivated. Either way, training for basics like impulse control, sit, wait, and recall, are all core things that will be useful every day. McCann’s videos were super helpful for us— learning how to teach by luring, being mindful of how you speak + command, etc. I also highly recommend using mealtimes to train— hand feeding is a great way to bond with your pup, show them that all good things come from you (motivation to listen to you), and a way to train the things they need to know without overloading them with treats.

• Body Handling— this may sound weird, but touch your puppy everywhere, every day after you bring them home. Get them comfortable and used to you handling and touching their paws, ears, mouths— and by touch, I don’t mean gentle petting. Practice holding their paws firmly, opening their mouths to look at their teeth, and holding their ears to look inside. The earlier they get used to this, the easier your life will be to do basic grooming like fur brushing, nail trimming, brushing their fur, cleaning their paws, and checking inside their mouths if they pick up something they shouldn’t (because oh, they will). Heap on the praise when they don’t squirm and are calm!

• Socialization— most people think that socialization means playing with lots of other dogs, but that’s only a small fraction of it! Socialization is getting your puppy used to new environments, textures, smells, sounds, people, and situations, so that they are not as easily rattled / fearful / lacking confidence about this stuff as a grown dog. Take them with you to new environments, have them walk on varying surfaces, around people, around bikes and cars so they can hear the noises, etc., and continually praise them when they are calm and confident. As for socializing with other dogs— as per vet recommendations we’ve gotten, puppies should not socialize with other dogs until they have their rabies vaccine and/or their full vaccination set. They can socialize with other dogs you know / trust that are fully vaccinated, but it’s best to keep it to a minimum to lower risk of sickness.

  • Note on DOG PARKS— I personally don’t and don’t plan on taking Benny to any dog parks. Not only can they be dirty with fecal matter aka grounds for picking up things like worms and fleas, but you don’t know how well trained / the personalities of the other dogs if they play well with others. Especially in the early days, you want your pup to only have positive experiences with other dogs so that they develop confidence and good temperament around other dogs. You can socialize and tire out your pup in so many other ways than the dog park. Here’s a post from a dog blogger I like that explains why she doesn’t take her dogs to the dog park either.

• Potty Training— this will depend on if you live in a high-rise apartment or a house with a yard, as you can potty train your pup in a number of ways. Benny from the beginning really didn’t like pee pads unless he had to use them and prefers to go outside, and we lucked out that potty training has been easier than some other people’s experiences. Regardless, you will be waking up a lot in the middle of the night during the few weeks. Few things that I’ve learned and found helpful:

  • The general rule of thumb for figuring out how long your puppy can hold their pee is: # of hours = # of months in age. It’s not great to force them for toooo much past that, as they can develop UTI’s or bladder infections.

  • HIGHLY recommend crate training for a potty training aid. More on that in the crate training section below.

  • Pee pads may be helpful if you are in an apartment or have a small dog you plan on using pee pads all the time with— however, it can sometimes make going potty outside tougher for your dog, so consider how or if you plan on transitioning as your pup grows.

  • Some people use grass patches / synthetic grass patches, but most trainers I’ve talked to say that it can sometimes cause more confusion for the pup who will then associate synthetic materials in the house (rugs / surfaces) to be good potty spots.

  • Positive reinforcement only. Praise them like crazy for going in the right areas, and do not say anything if they make a mistake otherwise it makes them associate fear with going potty. If they make a mistake, simply pick them up to take them to the right spot (it’s good if you’re able to catch them and interrupt them!) and clean up the mess properly with enzyme odor remover.

• Crate Training— dogs are naturally den animals and love having their “place.” Some people think crate training is mean or cruel, but it could not be less true. Benny actually loves his crate— it is his safe and comfy place to get some downtime, calm himself down, and sleep. It’s a huge help with potty training and some other training as well. Again, McCann’s videos are super helpful for this. Few important things to note:

  • Make the crate a fun, positive place. Give treats while in there, hand feed them meals in there, make it a spot where they get special things (Benny has his stuffed Kong or special chew treats in there or his bed only), and so on. They will quickly learn it’s a place where good things happen, and be happy to go in there!

  • The first few days may not be easy. Barking, whining, etc., but you gotta stick it out. Wait until they stop fussing before you open the door or let them out, otherwise it reinforces that them making a scene is what gets them out of the crate.

  • Crate Cover. We didn’t like the idea of this at first but at the recommendation of our trainer, we started using one. It helps overactive pups (when they are over-tired, they get even more excited / naughty) settle themselves down by providing less stimulus— it helped with Benny’s barking a ton, was perfect for time-outs, and he settles right in when we have it on for his naps. You can use a blanket or towel, but if you have a chewer like we do, they will likely chew those up (RIP my pretty beach towels). So we finally got a proper cover, and it’s great— breathable, let's enough light in, and opens from the front and sides to suit your needs.

I hope this has been a helpful guide!
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